Philly's Platinum Grille Scores a Silver

I headed over to Philly’s Platinum Grille in a downpour unsure that the restaurant would be open—not because of the weather, but because I had tried calling them three times in as many days and could not get an answer.  While in route, my sister tried again and got a recording that did not accept messages.  This poses a challenge if you want reservations.

Sans reservations, we walked in the door to a surprisingly crowded (especially for a very rainy Sunday night, at a shopping strip located) restaurant. This had to be a good sign.  

We were warmly welcomed on arrival and even given our choice of two tables—we sat right by the front window, being drawn by the whimsy of the unusual upholstered high back chairs unique to this table. Perhaps not the correct choice as the window sill was strewn with crumbs and dust.  

Undeterred by this oversight we began to tackle the menu. Self promoted as “an eclectic selection of Philadelphia’s favorite foods” the menu does indeed boast a diverse assortment and is certain to satisfy all palettes. From cheese steaks to seafood linguine, quesadillas to collard greens, much like you would find at a favorite diner, PPG’s menu offers a broad variety of culinary styles. Somewhere along the way, in advance of this visit, I heard that PPG was best known for their soul food and seafood so we decided to test those waters.

Coming up: French onion soup (okay, neither soul nor seafood but I couldn’t resist), gumbo,  sweet potato wedges, pan seared jumbo sea scallops, fried chicken, mac-n-cheese, coleslaw, collards, and seafood linguine. I did ask my server if we ordered too much—her response—“I’m not going to tell you how to eat”. Agreed, and by the way I forgot to mention the crowning jewel—homemade apple pie ala mode.

I won’t dwell on the first arrival, the French onion soup—suffice to say that I should have resisted.  We were happily munching however on the slices of soft white bread that had previously been delivered accompanied by a creamy salmon spread—with a dash of salt and pepper this was a treat to start.

Arriving simultaneously with the soup, the gumbo was on the right track.  It was robust and flavorful, though could stand to be kicked up a notch in the heat department.  A brothy version of traditional gumbo, it was crowded with tomato, carrot, celery, onion, okra (disappointed that a fried version was absent on the menu I was happy to confirm its presence here), sausage and shrimp. The shrimp were small but larger than popcorn and had been meticulously cleaned—too bad they were overcooked.

Next to arrive were the sweet potato wedges and the coleslaw.  Coleslaw is so hard to judge because there are seemingly endless variations, each equipped with its own contingency of advocates. For me this one was near perfection—I stand in the ‘less mayo is better camp’ and even go so far as to make mine with vinegar and no mayo whatsoever. PPG’s slaw was crisp, ever so slightly creamy and remarkably refreshing.  The sweet potato wedges were likely roasted—though they resembled the fried variety.  Soft, pillowy and naturally sweet, they stood alone quite well—not requiring use of the lackluster mango sauce provided for dipping.

When the scallops were delivered we made room in the center of the table and made quick work of them. They come with or without bacon—we opted for without—and they were memorable. Traditionally seasoned and enhanced by a health rub of butter, they were gorgeously rendered.  Their beauty was in their simplicity, exquisite execution and melt-in-your-mouth deliciousness.

Given the scallops, I was optimistic about the seafood linguine.  Unfortunately it was not of the same caliber.  The pasta and seafood (clams, shrimp and mussels) were more than slightly overcooked. The white wine and garlic sauce however was so delicious it was almost capable of redeeming the dish.

A PPG must have: fried chicken was served with our choice of sides—mac-n-cheese and collard greens—and did not disappoint. Like slaw, there are such a wide range of preferences when it comes to fried chicken.  PPG puts forth a thin but incredibly crispy batter that is full of flavor but remarkably grease-free.  Beneath this savory sheath the chicken is juicy and fall-off the bone tender. The mac-n-cheese was fine but not worth teasing out.  The collards on the other hand were worthy of the highest praise and tucked within was a special treat—a generous chunk of meat from the hock!

We had five choices for dessert: cheesecake, fried cheesecake, chocolate cake, pound cake and apple pie.  After inquiring, we learned that the pound cake and apple pie are made in house. We opted for apple pie ala mode—outstanding!  It did not look like much but the first plunge of the spoon shook its faulty façade.  Without question this pastry crust was made with love and lard. My only wish was that it be served with the high quality ice cream that it deserved.  

If you are a stickler for a pristine environment or take offense to scantily clad waitstaff, Philly’s Platinum Grille is not for you. “Platinum”—rare, precious, and associated with exclusivity—perhaps not, but a good solid silver if you have a hankering for soul food, scallops or apple pie.